Red's Hot Air Powerstroke Intercooler Install
Updated: 2/04/2002
Email Red For more info

Vehicle Specs (as of 2/4/02):
87 motor, Best with ta-49 turbo 11:60 @121.5.!! with a 1.91 60, Stock pistons with total seals , 204-214 speed pro cam, Two steel shim head gaskets , ARPhead bolts, Now has pte-51 , JJ t/b, msd 50's , Self ported heads and intake, Powerstroke i/c with 2 1/2 plumbing, Walbro 340, Only street trim pass on jl 93 chip 12:07@114 with 1.95 60ft, Only full pass on JL 110 chip 11:60@121.54 with 1.91 60 ft, Stock d5 converter, Boxed and polly bushed rear control arms

Introduction:
People keep asking about pics well here are some pics. Feel free to copy them, print them or whatever just dont claim them. That was my experament.

DISCARD THE RUSTY WATER UNDER THE HOOD
This car does not run hot. I just ran straight water due to going to the track. You can see in one picture that I have the wrong recovery tank, and every time I take off, it spills water on the fenderwell because the filler is at the rear of the tank instead of the center like it should be. But, I had to put on it with what I had at the time.

Misc Info:
Time on the install will vary. I did all the install in one night and the plumbing for it the next day... but i borrowed a plasma cutter which saved me a lot of time.

After all pipes are cut and fitted all pipes need to have a bead of weld put around the ends of them to keep the hoses from blowing off.

Pictures & Instructions: (click on images to enlarge)

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Another showing the back of the header panel were it needed cutting behind pass. side high beam.

Again header cutting around high beam on drivers side.

this one is showing were after the install was done i cut the plate that goes from the header panel to the radiator support to fill in the gap from the i/c up to keep some of the air from going over the i/c instead of thru it.

this is behind the high beam on drivers side..it is very tight back there. notice were i put the spring for the headlight bucket. there is no side to side adjuster anymore but with the spring at the bottom and the adjuster at the top it holds the light in place tight enough to set the side to side by hand and it stays in place. just have to make sure to mount the spring far enough back to keep a good tension on it.

this shot with the headlight bucket in place you get a better idea of spring location and how it works.

you can see here were the inlet of the i/c goes thru the rad. support and you can see were it sits on the frame also.

same as other but this is drivers side.

this one didnt turn out to good but the tag has been proven many many times.

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this one shows the reducer hose from precision turbo and the trimming i did to the inner fenderwell. very right of the pic. is the air filter..plenty of room there.

nasty pic. but you can see here the trimming done to the pass. wheelwell and batt. clearence

good shot of just how big this thing is..see how i fit the plate back in above it and cut the ends off the plate to use for header support and holds the i/c from any side to side movement.

this is on drivers side were i trimmed the bumper bracket back and used the tabs on the i/c to rest it on the frame..no way its going to fall out

showing were i cut the end of the original bracket off and fit it back in ... notice i split a piece of vacuum line and glued it to the edge against the i/c.

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good shot off the outlet side plumbing going to the t/b

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cant forget to clearence the hood .. this is not very noticed when people look under the hood and the hood seems to be very sturdy still...and cant be seen with hood closed. i'll make it prettier when i start on boddy work and paint.

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YUCK ..butt here you can notice im not running the oil cooler on the radiator right now but i did not find were it would be a problem it just out cause the radiator was leaking.

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pass. side i/c tab resting on the frame.

close-up of i/c against top of radiator support notice how far the top was cut back .. it opened the front of the radiator support . it will have to be reenforced by welding spacers inside it to keep the plate that holds the hood latch from flexing or i ran four bolts all the way thru with spacers in the middle to tighten the top back up... worked just fine.

another shot of hood learencing notice its basically body line to body line on the hood

the other end of the factory plate beside the i/c

the pipe right there happens to be my factory uppipe that was cut to fit.

that pipe is aluminized 2 1/2 ext tubbing. i used 2 of these mandrel bent 90's this one from the t/b turning down and the one its connected to turning over toward the outlet of the i/c i had one 2 1/2 mandrel bent U shape pipe that i cut in half in the center of the U and one side is attached to the inlet of the i/c and the other half is the pipe attached to the outlet of the i/c