BanningCohen.com > Buick > Frame Notch

Frame Notch
06/14/05

Description:
Using the tools pictured below (along with a mig welder) this will take almost 20 hours to complete(!). Using a plasma cutter would cut the time in half.

One of the reasons for the added time, is that the stock frame material was not reused as some people do. When you remove this metal you'll be surprised at how soft it is. Used below is eavier and stronger 3/16" steel instead. This will be more difficult to cut through but it'll add strength back into the frame.

The end result is that you can run a 325/50/15 street tire (28" tall, 11" tread, 13" section width) on a 15x10" wheel with 5" backspacing with no clearance issues with the frame.

 

Tools and Materials Used:
Dewalt 4 1/2" angle grinder.
- Thin cutting disks (6-8).
- Thick grinding disk (1).

3" Pneumatic cuttoff wheel.
- Not very usefull (about 2 disks)

Sears 18v cordless saber saw.
- 6" bimetal blade (2)
- 9" bimetal blade (2)

Lincoln Mig Pak 10 MIG welder (gas).

Tips:

  • If at all possible, find someone with a plasma cutter. It will probably cut your time in half (or more)!
  • The 3" Pneumatic cuttoff wheel was almost never used.
  • Since a plasma cutter wasn't used, the saber saw and 4 1/2 grinder were the key tools. When making the first cuts, try and cut as much of the face off the frame as possible with the saber saw.
  • One the frame is cut and you are ready to make up your template, use cardboard. When making finesse cuts on the cardboard to get it to fir perfect, use the 4 1/2" angle grinder with the thick disk on it. It'll shave off the cardboard nice & quick.
 

Pictures: (click on images to enlarge)

Tools used for the job.

Before all the cutting began (drivers side).

Cutting frame with saber saw. Make sure to wear good eye and hand protection.

Front side of frame rail (in front of axle) BEFORE cutting. I tried to cut along the seam in the frame (see red dotted lines in pic). It is on the top and bottom of the frame rail and pretty much lines up with where the stock inner fender meets the frame rail.

Front side of frame rail (in front of axle) AFTER cutting.

Rear side of frame rail (in front of axle) BEFORE cutting.

Rear side of frame rail (in back of axle) AFTER cutting.

Template made from 3/16" steel being cut - use a plasma cutter if you can!!

3/16" steel template tack welded into place between the frame rails (not on top)

Front piece welded in.

Rear piece welded in. Inner fender also "massaged" with a large hammer.

Front section welded up and painted (the camera flash makes the paint look brighter than it really is)

Welded up and painted.

Rear section welded up and painted.

Here's what the frame notch allowed me to run on the back of the car!!